These ‘dragon’s egg’ cucumbers were a lot of fun to grow this season because they’re interesting and they have been extremely prolific. I love their pale color and small size. They are about twice the size of an average chicken egg and they taste just as you’d expect a cucumber should. They’re cold and refreshing out of the fridge. The skin is tender and not bitter. They’re perfect for snacking on raw but I also used my abundant harvest to dehydrate some salted cucumber crisps.
I gave them an area of about 30×30 inches for three plants. I directly sowed the seeds on May 27th. The soil was amended with loads of organic compost. I added a 4′ tall trellis that I made from a scrap of welded wire fencing, metal rods, and wooden stakes. I had to actively train the cucumbers up the trellis as they grew. The trellis has made it extremely easy to harvest fruit and inspect the plant for cucumber beetles and other pests. I occasionally fed the plants with a small amount of organic, granular 5-5-5 fertilizer.
These plants are still producing abundant fruit by the beginning of August but their leaves are starting to look unattractive. By August 19th, they are still producing several fruits every couple days. There are fewer flowers now and the leaves are faded and discolored.
What can I say? When I saw a photograph of a blue-gray pumpkin I immediately wanted to grow my own. I found some organic, non-GMO, heirloom seeds and planted one in my raised bed. It brings me joy every day as I see it continuing to grow larger and change color.
I am growing my single “blue jarrahdale” pumpkin plant in the sunny, southern half of a raised bed that it shares with a few tomato plants (an area measuring about 36×36 inches). In early spring, I amended the soil with loads of compost and I’ve treated it weekly with a small amount of organic granular fertilizer. I started the seeds in pots indoors on May 13th and planted three of them out on May 27th. I (reluctantly) thinned to one plant due to the space constraint. By July 27th, I have just one thriving pumpkin on a bushy, 10 foot vine. The vine is happily traveling south down my garden path. Several female flowers have perished throughout the season but one persisted and it is awesome.
Note: I’ll be updating this post regularly until the end of the growing season.
INTRO I was so excited to have room to plant pumpkins and winter squash in 2017, that I ended up buying 9 different varieties. I definitely bought way too many seeds. When I finally sat down to plan the garden, I realized I would need to add a significantly more space to my garden if I wanted to grow all these vining squash plants. My goal was to grow several varieties of pumpkin for both eating and autumn decoration. I was also hoping to have extras for my chickens (that were only hatchlings when I started this project). The only problem is that I don’t yet have a tiller and I hate digging. I thought this would be a great opportunity to try a no-till garden.
METHODS In mid-February 2017, I sectioned off an area of lawn that was 17×20 feet. I chose a mostly sunny (evening shade) area of the lawn for my pumpkin patch and fenced it in. I laid plain, brown cardboard down over all the grass (1-2 layers thick). I topped the cardboard with a 1-2” layer of straw (approximately 1.5 straw bales). I soaked everything thoroughly with water once or twice a week. I began using distinct paths in the patch in en effort to somewhat alleviate soil compaction. After all, I was relying on the worms to move in and make the place suitable for growth. In April, I purchased 8 cubic feet of organic compost and made 8 hills, using one cubic foot of compost for each. The hills were concentrated in the sunny, southern half off the pumpkin patch, about 4 feet apart. I started pumpkin seedlings indoors, two weeks before planting out. After the the last frost on May 27, I planted 4 pumpkin seedlings in each hill and eventually thinned to 2 plants per hill. I added a drip hose for irrigation. I occasionally applied organic Bt spray and/or a neem oil mixture to deter insects. I fertilized weekly with 1-2 T of organic granular 5-5-5 fertilizer per plant. The eight varieties I planted were: (1) Big Max, (2) Jarrahdale, (3) Flat White Boer, (4) Moranga, (5) Musquee de Maroc, (6) Pipian from Tuxpan, (7) Red Warty Thing and, (8) Yuxijiangbinggua.
RESULTS By June 8, they plants were looking small and scraggly. I started noticing a few squash bugs in early June so I vacuumed them up. In early July I started seeing cucumber beetles so I vacuumed those up too. I noticed that the plants in my new pumpkin patch were developing a little bit slower than the pumpkins in my raised beds and they began flowering a few weeks later too. I trained the vines to go northward to fill in that section of the pumpkin patch. By July 11, there was one pumpkin forming and several female flowers getting ready to bloom on the others. However, the pumpkins in my raised beds have had dozens of male flowers and numerous fruits in various stages of development. By July 17, there are 3 small pumpkins developing and many female flowers that are close to opening. By July 21, I started noticing squash bug and cucumber beetle eggs on the undersides of dozens of leaves. By the 25th, some of the leaves with egg clusters that I missed were now hosts to lots of little creepy squash bug larvae with black legs. I snipped off the affected leaves and disposed of them. There have been several small fruits that died and fell off the vine, which may have been caused by the bugs.
Progress photos of the various plants in the pumpkin patch:
(1) Progress of Big Max:
(2) Progress of Blue Jarrahdale
(3) Progress of Flat White Boer:
(4) Progress of Moranga:
(5) Progress of Musquee de Maroc:
FUTURE PLANS The pests aren’t annoying enough to deter me from planting pumpkins again next season. However, I’ve heard you aught to avoid planting pumpkins in the same area for three years to disrupt the life-cyle of pests, such as squash bugs and cucumber beetles. Pumpkins also drastically deplete the soil of nutrients (and need a ton of water). In the fall when the pumpkins are removed from the patch, I’ll grow a cover crop and confine the chickens to the patch to forage for bugs in the soil to hopefully reduce pest populations and weed seeds, and add fertilizer. I’ll also employ the chickens to help till and fertilize a new bed for next season’s pumpkins. I’ve read that guinea fowl are good for eliminating squash bugs in the garden while leaving the developing fruit unharmed. I’m going to consider it for next year but I’m worried about that I’ll hate how loud they are.
In the future, I will keep the plants covered as much as possible and I’ll consider relying on hand pollinating them. I’ll plant hills at least 6 to 8 feet apart (or more) because it’s so much easier to inspect the leaves for pests when there is extra room to maneuver. I’ll use considerably more compost to start with.
I chose to grow “Yugoslavian Finger Fruit” winter squash primarily because of its unique shape and the fact that it’s a winter squash that can be eaten like a summer squash. The mature fruits are interesting and store well. The small fruits are tender and seedless and can be sliced up and cooked like a zucchini. The taste isn’t very strong so it goes well with anything.
I started my two finger fruit plants from seed on May 13th, two weeks before the last frost date in my area. I reserved a space measuring approximately 36×36” in my 6” raised bed for two mature plants. On May 27, I transplanted the best few seedlings and then thinned to two plants, about a foot apart, a few weeks later. I’ve been fertilizing every week or two with organic granular fertilizer at the recommended dose. I’ve also been occasionally spraying solutions of milk, neem oil, or Bt spray to address powdery mildew and insects. I’ve removed a few affected leaves but the plants are overall very healthy by the end of July. The squash is spilling out and producing several fruits.
These are perfect because there is no need to peel the skin. It is great roasted or sautéed with oil, salt, and pepper. The texture smoother than other squash. They also look neat sitting in the kitchen and they keep well.
By August 2nd, my squash plants are still producing numerous fruits as the vines are trailing down the garden path. Some of the leaves don’t look amazing. I haven’t been treating them with anything, just removing the affected leaves.
I love squash. I especially love regular green acorn squash with the orange flesh. But I thought I’d try this white variety this year and I’m glad that I did. These fruit are beautiful and taste just as you’d expect an acorn squash should.
I started my two “white acorn” winter squash plants from seed on May 13th, two weeks before the last frost date in my area. I reserved a space measuring approximately 32×72” in my 12” raised cedar bed for two mature plants. On May 27, I transplanted the best few seedlings and then thinned to two plants a few weeks later. The growth habit is compact but it uses every square inch of space I gave it in the raised bed. I occasionally hand-pollinated the female flowers but the plants were constantly buzzing with bees and other pollinators so I mostly left it up to them.
I harvested the first squash on July 21st, the second on July 26th, and now there are several more growing. The plants are producing tons of flowers and lots of leaves but some of the foliage has suffered a tiny bit of a powdery mildew-like residue so I removed the affected leaves. I’ve been treating plants with milk and/or neem oil on a weekly basis but I can’t be sure what affect it’s having. By late July, a few of the young fruits have died but there are so many more developing well. I harvested the squash a week or two after I noticed it stopped growing and the skin turned from snow white to a creamy off-white. The flesh inside is also creamy white and firm.
I peeled the skin, scooped out the seeds, and cubed the flesh. It was great roasted with oil, salt, and pepper like I would with an average green acorn squash or butternut squash. The seeds are tasty, crunchy snack when they’re oiled, salted, and roasted until toasty brown.
I started this “white bush scallop” squash from seed on May 13th, two weeks before the last frost date in my area. On May 27, I transplanted the best three seedlings and then thinned to only one a few weeks later. It should produce in only 50 days. I grew this plant in my 12-inch raised bed in an area about 32×40 inches. The first fruit was produced by mid-July and now there are several more to be harvested. The leaves are spilling over the bed but the foliage is green and untouched by disease, as of July 24th.
I often grow regular green zucchini and yellow summer squash but I wanted to try something “new” this year. I was intrigued by this heirloom variety that was grown by native Americans because its history can be traced back hundreds of years. It’s a beautiful and tasty fruit and I’ll definitely grow more next season.